We
crossed the Atacama desert, 1600 kilometres of rocks and sand, and
arrived in the seaside town of Arica near the Peruvian border, where
we had to wait five days for the weekly train that would carry us
up into the Altiplano to La Paz, capital of Bolivia. We found a
hotel room in a sleepy backstreet. On arrival Tashi befriended some
kids and the place livened up at once. Tashi had blossomed since
we'd departed: inquisitive, open, disarming as only a three-year
old can be. He always checked out everyone, but especially other
children, and was quick at making friends on buses, trains, in waiting
rooms and public parks. Soon the kids were raging like wind-up toys,
up and down the stairs and through the courtyard. It wasn't long
before Tashi had a bad fall. He howled with pain, his face was very
swollen and I feared that he might have broken his nose.
The
Chilean social welfare system had fallen in dire straits under the
Pinochet regime, and public hospitals were unable to cope with the
demand. For two agonising days we waited in endless queues to see
a doctor. 150 people lined up to register, as many to see a nurse,
then again as many to get x-rayed and finally, at the end of day
two, to meet the medical student who told me my son's nose was broken
and that time should heal it. All this while a child sobbed with
pain, his face badly deformed. Many other parents, some helpless,
others enraged, waited in line with hurt and sick children. Old
people sat slumped against the walls and peasants, who had travelled
from afar with their belongings tied in a blanket, had camped near
the doorstep. Shabby children in rags sold soft drinks and empanadas
to the sick.
The
following days I took Tashi for walks along the beach, telling stories
to divert his attention from the pain. Over the previous six months
of travelling across the Pacific Ocean our world of stories had
expanded into a universe of characters and places. We ourselves
had become heroes in these stories. In them we travelled oceans,
deserts and jungles, stars and planets. We encountered dragons,
demons, apparitions, treasures, giants, pirates, robbers. We flew
through the air on flying horses, made use of marvellous devices
that could shrink us, heal us, transport us across time and space.
We were two princes and a prince had certain privileges. A prince
also had duties and had to be of service to others. From our simple
home, a hut beside a river deep in the forest, we ventured out into
a world that was magical & inexplicable, enormous, with immense
possibilities, dangerous & exciting. We followed a code of conduct,
there were specific routes to take, we had allies and friends such
as the giant turtle that carried us from our house across the mountain
stream on each new departure, a talking goanna or the Professor
with his wonderful inventions such as "El
Rayo Verde", "the Green Ray", whose beam made us small
enough to sail in Tashi's toy-boat in a backyard brook buzzing with
giant dragonflies, wasps armed with spears of steel, ants the size
of tanks. The tales never really ended. Catastrophic episodes were
followed by new beginnings. Favourite serials were repeated on request.
Reality and imagination blended into one. These stories would be
of great help during our long trek to Coroico. .
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